Silverbased

Projects and ponderings for film photographers

Wide-Eyed About Blur

Many photographers got a good chuckle this week, when the dating site OkCupid posted an analysis of which camera settings make you romantically attractive.

OkCupid harvested all this camera information from the EXIF data embedded in their members’ photos. This means, unfortunately, that we can’t get numbers proving that being photographed on film is the sexiest of all—but I assure you it’s true.

Since I often sputter about how harsh and unflattering on-camera flash is, I’m tickled to finally see hard numbers spelling out how bad the damage really is. Having your picture taken with flash is equivalent to adding 5 or 10 years to your age, as far as your attractiveness goes. (Hmm, plotting my age on that graph, I fear I’d better be photographed in total darkness.)

The analysis also showed an effect where viewers preferred photos taken at wide lens apertures—notice all the green boxes for f-numbers f/2.8 and below? Of course, taking shots at wider apertures means shallower focus, allowing a photographer to de-emphasize extraneous background clutter.

But I think OkCupid misunderstood something about the f/stop effect. Point-n-shoot cameras and DSLR kit zooms generally don’t offer apertures of f/2.8 or larger. Only a photographer who went out and bought a different, more advanced lens will ever have “f/1.4″ show up in their EXIF data. Such people are more engaged, and presumably more skilled, as photographers—thus, they probably shoot somewhat more flattering portraits.

Another problem is that without knowing the sensor size and the subject distance, the f/number alone will not tell you how blurred the background actually was.

Portrait with Shallow Depth of Field

Selective focus—will it get you more dates?

Nonetheless, when Christian Rudder comments, “because the photos with the low f numbers feel more intimate and personal, they get a better viewer response” I do agree. A portrait where twinkling eyes are sharp, but beyond is a soft halo of blur… it does look very stylish and appealing—even romantic.

So will running out and buying that f/0.95 Leica Noctilux convert you into an irresistible sex bomb? (Albeit one with an empty bank account?)

Anything relating to Depth of Field inevitably turns out to be a bit more complicated than you might imagine. As I mentioned, f/numbers alone are not the whole story.

Now, Dr. Hubert Nasse of Carl Zeiss has helped us out tremendously here, by writing a detailed analysis (1.7 Mb PDF) regarding focus depth, background blur, and bokeh. It’s published in the Zeiss newsletter Camera Lens News No. 35. This document is a humbling read, for anyone who innocently believed they already understood depth of field.

But perhaps I can spare you the 45 pages of graphs and diagrams. Regarding the topic at hand, “how can I blur the background the most,” let’s jump straight to Dr. Nasse’s answer (on page 30):

If by “bokeh’ you mean principally the ability to be able to represent the  background as very blurred, soft and lacking detail, it is necessary to have an entrance pupil which is sufficiently large.

[Misusing "bokeh" just to mean "blurry background" is regrettably widespread today, despite my blog's futile protests],

And:

The decisive parameter for the quantity of the blurriness is therefore the physical size of the entrance pupil.

Hmm, what is this “pupil” thing Dr. Nasse is talking about?

Well, we all know that the pupil of your eye is the black part, where the light gets in. Likewise, a lens’s entrance pupil is just the apparent diameter of its clear opening, looking from the outside.

Lens Entrance Pupils

Entrance pupils of two lenses

The lens on the left is the one I used to make the portrait shown above. As you can see, the clear opening is quite large.

Imagine all the rays of light originating from one point on the subject which fall into that opening: They form an imaginary cone. The “fatter” that cone is, the bigger the disk of blurred light becomes in the un-focused parts of the image.

On the right side we have a very standard “kit zoom,” ubiquitous on today’s DSLRs. I set it to give the widest possible entrance pupil; but even so, that’s nowhere close to the diameter of the front element. So we see at a glance this lens can’t give us much background blur.

And point-n-shoot cameras, whose entrance pupils are practically pinholes, will be utterly hopeless. (Perhaps another reason OkCupid users found those cameras’ snapshots less appealing?)

Now, is this just because the left-hand lens can open all the way to f/2.0? The zoom as shown above is a couple of stops dimmer.

Not so fast. Entrance pupil diameter also depends on the focal length. Or to be precise, an f-number is defined as the focal length divided by the entrance pupil width, at a given diaphragm setting.

So different lenses can have different entrance pupil diameters, even when they’re all set to the same f/number. See here:

Three Lenses at f/2.8

Three lenses, all at f/2.8: Focal lengths 24, 50, 100 mm

Each doubling (roughly) of the focal length requires a doubling of the entrance pupil diameter. If you’d like to click on the photo above to open a larger version, you can measure and confirm that yourself.

So even though all these are set to/2.8, it’s clear that the 100 mm will blur the background the most.

Thinking in terms of entrance pupils, not f/numbers,  helps resolve one classic paradox in understanding depth of field:

As you switch focal lengths, you must move nearer or farther away to keep your subject the same height in the frame. When you take this into account, and play with a depth of field calculator, suprisingly you discover that changing lens focal lengths has practically no effect on the DOF (as long as you maintain the same f/number).

Yet that seems nutty! Our common-sense experience tells us that for blurring distracting backgrounds, you’d always reach for the telephoto first.

The answer to the paradox is simple. Yes, the depth of sharp focus depends simply on the f/number. But the amount of blurring of distant backgrounds (say, 25 feet or more behind the subject) depends largely on the lens’s entrance pupil size. This the distinction Dr. Nasse was trying to clarify.

We now understand why many lenses considered classics for portraiture are both bright in f/ratio and longer in focal length. For pleasing portraits, I tend to reach for the first two lenses shown below: First, the Olympus Zuiko 85/2.0; next, the Canon new-FD 100/2.0.

Quartet of Wide Entrance Pupil Lenses

Quartet of blur kings

Both remain sought-after gems from their respective lens lineups; on eBay you would expect to spend a couple hundred dollars for either. So alongside those, I’ve shown a couple of alternatives you might find interesting.

While lens #3 does not quite match the entrance pupil diameter of the Canon, it’s still pretty respectable. This is a Mamiya 110 mm f/2.8 lens, for their 645 medium-format system. And it only cost me $60 from KEH. As I’ve written before, medium format systems can give you nice background blur at quite an affordable price.

Even more entertaining is the fourth lens. My apologies that its engravings are dingy and hard to read—I estimate it’s at least 70 years old, maybe more. That’s a Kodak Projection Anastigmat, which “only” opens to f/4.5. But its ten-inch focal length means it has the widest entrance pupil of all. (10″ = 254 mm)

That one came from an eBay auction, where the word “projection” scared off every other buyer but me. So my low starting bid won it: Just eleven bucks, shipped.

I admit, it’s not very convenient to use a 1.5 pound, shutterless large-format lens. But oh! Isn’t the background blur lovely?

f/5.6 With A Large Entrance Pupil

4×5 sheet film; Kodak 10″ Projection Anastigmat

Lets compare that to the blur from the plasticky DSLR zoom I showed you before. To make this a fair fight, I actually stopped down the old Kodak to f/5.6, the best the kit lens can manage when zoomed in.

f/5.6 With A Small Entrance Pupil

Background blur with an undersized entrance pupil

Now I promise you: These are both f/5.6 shots, taken from the same distance. It’s just the entrance pupil diameter that changes the background blur. You need a longer focal length lens on the bigger 4×5 film format; thus at any given f/number, the entrance pupil will be larger.

It’s unfortunate that “entrance pupil” is such geeky-sounding optical jargon. If we could spread awareness of its importance, photographers would automatically know how to get that lovely, soft, selective-focus look.

Maybe we could just talk about “wide eyed” lenses instead?

After all, everyone knows—wide open eyes are sexy!

Film Newbie: Loading & Shooting 120

The past decade’s explosion of digital cameras—or even our ubiquitous phonecams—have lured many new folks into pursuing photography. It can certainly shorten the learning curve when you’re free to shoot many different versions of a scene, or try crazy experiments, all for free and with immediate feedback. So for an increasing fraction of today’s photographers, film cameras are just a hazy memory.

Yet there is still a powerful draw to recapture some of the “analog soul” of chemical photography. You can see this in the surprise popularity of the Hipstamatic iPhone app, the success of Lomography-branded cameras at retailers like Urban Outfitters, and the recent re-launch of Polaroid-compatible film by The Impossible Project.

For those who want to dip a toe into shooting the real thing, there is much to recommend a basic Holga 120N camera. It’s cheap, widely available, and gives images with a distinctive dreamy flavor. And in general, any camera with the same large film format will give a noticeably different feeling from digital (something I’ve written about before).

We’re talking about shooting the 120 film size, often referred to as medium format.

Even if you’re an old hand with 35mm film, 120 has some quirks which can trip you up. So today I’ll give a visual step-by-step on how to load it, and how frame-counting works with 120 cameras.

120 Film Boxes

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Kodachrome: Shoot It Now!

The following is a public service announcement:

Kodachrome Box

In the summer of 2009, Kodak announced the end for their legendary Kodachrome slide film. The final batch of Kodachrome 64 carries an expiration date of 11/2010, and major retailers have long since sold out—although a few stray rolls can still be found on eBay, at high prices.

But the crucial point to know is this: There is only one commercial lab left in the world developing Kodachrome, and that is Dwayne’s Photo in Parsons, Kansas. And they will only develop Kodachrome through the end of December 2010. The price to develop and mount a 36-exposure roll (before shipping) is USD $10.

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