Silverbased

Projects and ponderings for film photographers

Archive for March, 2008


Bully for Telephoto

Occasionally some self-appointed guardian of language purity will scold photographers that they’re misusing the word telephoto.

It is true that in optical design, the term “telephoto” originally had a specific technical meaning. Through the use of a negative component closest to the film, the overall length of a lens can be reduced, so it becomes shorter than its optical focal length.

Telephoto Optical Design

Rear negative element makes this Zeiss design a true telephoto

The purist would have us refer to longer focal lengths lacking this special configuration as long focus lenses. The distinction can be relevant for view-camera users, because it affects the bellows extension required to focus. But should the rest of us become angst-ridden about using the “wrong” word?

Recently I’ve been reading Rudolf Kingslake’s A History of the Photographic Lens. He makes a few interesting observations about telephoto lenses.

The size reduction of true telephotos becomes increasingly valuable the longer the focal length required; however they demand careful design to avoid pincushion distortion. A classic telephoto configuration can yield a lens that is physically about 80% as long as its focal length—called its “telephoto ratio.”

Yet a mirror lens using a folded light path can do even better: its physical length can be less than one quarter of its focal length. With such impressive telephoto ratios, don’t these designs also deserve the name?

The lenses for 16mm or 8mm cine cameras cover a small film format; accordingly, their focal lengths are proportionately shorter. In the days before zoom lenses became ubiquitous, movie-makers would switch between individual wide, normal and telephoto lenses. Yet because of their shorter focal lengths, cine “telephotos” rarely needed to be true telephoto designs.

Yet the term telephoto has been firmly entrenched in movie usage for at least 50 years. Thus, the zoom controls for subsequent cine cameras were labeled “wide—tele” and not “wide—long.” And of course this convention was carried forward to all motorized zooms in point-n-shoot still cameras, whatever their optical designs.

Another problem with this fussbudget distinction about telephoto is that most of us don’t know the exact optical configuration of the lenses we use—and have no reason to care.

Olympus XA–Telephoto?

A curious example of this is the Olympus XA, which includes a 35mm f/2.8 lens. Any sane standard would regard this as a moderate wide-angle. Yet in fact, the XA’s optical design is a true telephoto—using a large negative element close to the film, to permit the camera’s impressively compact clamshell body. (Kingslake cites the Kodak Disc Camera lens as a similar example, although the XA design preceded it.)

Would the pedants insist we call the XA a telephoto camera?

In its official literature, Olympus listed my beloved OM-System Zuiko 85mm f/2.0 alongside other telephotos, while noting its telephoto ratio as 108%. In other words, it’s not a true telephoto at all—it’s merely shorter than competing brands. (In a cross-sectional diagram, its rear lens group appears to be positive.)

Zuiko 85–Not Telephoto?

Zuiko 85mm: Too tall for tele?

Today of course, zoom lenses are ubiquitous on all types of cameras. It’s rarely clear how to pigeonhole their complex optical designs. (Canon’s basic DSLR kit zoom uses 11 lens elements.) Should we name the long end of their zoom range telephoto or not?

Photographers will always need SOME term to describe a narrower-than-normal field of view; or equivalently, focal lengths longer than the image diagonal. And at this late date, telephoto has become the term most universally understood.

Steven Jay Gould once wrote a column in Natural History, “Bully for Brontosaurus” (which lent its name to a book collection of essays). In it, he bemoaned the 1970s nomenclature revision in paleontology which (on narrow grounds of priority) replaced the familiar name brontosaurus with apatasaurus instead.

Not only did he find the reasons for the change questionable; but he also felt that the brontosaurus—as one of the “rock star” dinosaurs—had done much to fuel public interest in his field. So he encouraged his readers to continue using the old name, without guilt.

In the same spirit, I say “bully for telephoto.” Unless you design lenses for a living, ignore the finger wagging of prune-faced killjoys. Use the word telephoto freely, and be happy.

And remember, the images you take with your lenses are more important than the names you use for them.

Plasti-Pinhole, Times Two

In a pair earlier of articles, I showed how to gut a cheapie focus-free 35mm trashcam, and replace its lens with a pinhole.

One rationale for that project was that nowadays, it’s getting harder to buy and develop any film size besides 35mm. Pinhole cameras made for other odd formats are certainly fun, but sometimes require access to a darkroom to make them practical.

But one of the joys of pinhole photography is being able to try out bizarre, idiosyncratic camera designs: Weird-shaped frames, ultra-wide-angle coverage, or warped perspectives from curving the film plane.

The moderately wide coverage of the normal plasticam pinhole is interesting; and its standard 24×36mm frame makes developing the film at any lab easy. Yet compared to more exotic possibilities, it does begin to seem a little tame…

A Japanese woman on Flickr wanted to make a panorama-format pinhole camera. Her inspired idea was to take a plastic Holga, and saw it into pieces. She reused its film-supply and take-up-spool compartments, but replaced the middle section with a homemade “stretch limo” version: A light-tight box with film gate, pinhole and shutter. Genius!

A Holga uses 120 film of course; but she inspired me to consider doing something similar with 35mm film. (Aside from getting interesting widescreen framing, with pinhole cameras a larger format helps give a more detailed image.)

The way I build a 35mm plasti-pinhole, the original shutter is discarded; so it’s not the button on top that takes the picture any more. But the film-winding mechanism remains intact. As you wind, a toothed wheel allows 8 sprocket holes to go past, then locks; this yields the standard-width frame spacing. You still need to click the button on top to release the winding thumbwheel, before you can advance to the next frame.

But you do this independently from making the exposure. And I had an “aha” moment when I realized that if you clicked and wound twice between pictures, that standard mechanism would permit shooting double-width images: 24 x 72 mm!

But how to build the rest of the camera?

Here is my whimsically warped solution: I took two identical plastic trashcams, and sawed through them, exactly at the edges of their film gates. Then I glued and taped them back together “siamese-twin” style, to make a panoramic pinhole camera.

Two Focus-Free Trashcams

Two focus-free plastic 35mm cameras; $1.40 for the pair at my local thrift store.

A majority of trashy plastic models use curved film gates, to mask the deficiencies of their crummy lenses. But for this purpose, finding two matching cameras with flat film gates makes construction much simpler.

Some plasticams have their own “panorama” mask which you can swing into place. But all those extra parts would add more complications, so I shunned that style too. These two ultra-simple Bell & Howell trashcams turned out to be perfect.

I arbitrarily chose one camera for the supply-compartment half, and the other for the film takeup side. Then I disassembled both cameras and discarded all the unnecessary bits and pieces inside—lenses, shutters, springs, etc. It’s important to remove all stray metal parts before sawing into the camera body!

Two Cameras After Gutting

Discarding useless innards; black lines mark the approximate cut locations

Unlike in my standard plasticam-pinhole, I could not reuse the sliding lens guards as a shutter: The pinhole opening would not be aligned with either camera’s original lens position. So all those moving parts got tossed too.

Next I screwed the shells back onto the camera bodies, wrapped tape around both to hold their backs shut, and sawed through each one.

The crapcam types shown here include dummy weights glued into their bases (to lend an illusion of quality!) It was particularly tricky to avoid grinding the saw blade into those metal chunks—so be careful. An old hand-saw miter box is a great tool for getting a straight, square cut.

Cameras After Sawing

I sawed just inside the right edge of one camera’s film gate, and the left edge of the other. This still left some interior partitions standing in the way of the desired pinhole location, all of which needed to be cut away with a sharp knife.

Film Gates After Sawing

Now, I wish I could say I used some sophisticated assembly technique to combine the two bodies. But really I just spooged the halves together with copious amounts of black silicone sealant—supplemented with much electrical tape. I was trying to fill all gaps where light might leak in, and keep the now-combined film gates as well-aligned as possible.

I also glued an aluminum bar across the two film-door halves, so the back would swing open and latch shut correctly as a single unit again.

A piece of aluminum sheet with an 0.2 mm pinhole went across the front of the camera body. Positioned only 26mm from the film plane, I knew this camera was going to give some wide-angle coverage! (Horizontally, it’s about 110°.) The pinhole size works out to f/128, for those of you keeping track.

For this camera I tried a new shutter idea, a design which has quickly became my absolute favorite. I will definitely be using it again for any future pinhole cameras.

I took a spare cable release I had lying around, and cut away the rotating barrel intended to thread into a shutter button. This uncovers enough extra length of the moving shaft to allow me to hot-glue it to a piece of thick black cardboard. Then the cable sheath is glued to the front of the camera body.

Shutter, Closed

The moving shutter piece is outlined in red here. It has a cut-out which uncovers the pinhole as the cable release is pressed. A couple of scrap pieces glued around the edges guide the moving panel.

Shutter, Open

What’s wonderful about this design is that the cable-release’s own internal spring snaps the shutter closed again—or, it can be locked open indefinitely with the set-screw of the release. And there’s no jiggling the camera when you open the shutter.

The front shell of the camera needed a matching rectangular opening cut into it. Then finally, I screwed and taped the camera shell back together again. (There’s no particular significance to the metallic tape—it just hides several no-longer-needed openings in the camera’s front panel.)

Camera Completed

The block of particle-board contains my usual homebrew tripod socket: A 1/4-20 nut epoxied into a hole in the bottom.

For a while I was jokingly calling this camera the “HaxPan,” in reference to Hasselblad’s multi-thousand-dollar panoramic XPan camera system. Of course, my camera covers a wider angle than even its 30mm lens (as well as saving a few pennies… )

Obviously no ordinary lab will know how to make prints from these crazy non-standard frames. But the negatives can be developed just like any other 35mm, and then scanned on any of the current inexpensive flatbed film scanners for further processing.

Making this camera was truly an experiment. There are still a couple of small light leaks at the joint between the cameras. And next time I would probably do a few things a little differently…

Placing the pinhole so close to the film does give extremely wide views—but you can’t see much detail at the edges, because the light fall-off is so extreme. And a 110° angle of coverage is so hard to visualize without a proper viewfinder that I found framing to be quite hit-or-miss.

So next time, rather than placing the pinhole so far back, I would build up the light-tight inner compartment a little deeper and use a slightly longer focal length.

But that’s the great thing about pinhole cameras: The cost of experimenting is low… and the fun of blazing new ground is priceless.

Happy hacking!

Sample Image from 35mm Panorama Pinhole

Sample photo from the double-width 35mm pinhole. Note small light leaks at the seam between camera bodies. More samples here.

Aperture: Digital’s Dirty Little Secret

You don’t need me to repeat the litany of complaints about compact digital cameras. Autofocus lag. Poor viewfinders. Image noise in low light. Mike Johnston half-jokingly concluded that the entire class shares so many inherent flaws that you shouldn’t even waste your time comparison-shopping between brands.

Recently I’ve posted my own grumbles about digitals’ lithium batteries, and their excessive depth-of-field. But I’d like to take a moment to discuss another subtle failing of digital point-and-shoots, one I rarely see mentioned: Aperture range.

Usually, the range of available apertures on a compact digital is a scant 2 or 3 f/stops. I’m serious: Go check out the “aperture range” listed in some typical specs …I’ll wait for you to come back.

Now, trading off aperture versus shutter speed—to control motion blur and depth of field—is a cornerstone of creative photography. So how could digital camera manufacturers permit such a crippling flaw?

How F/numbers Are Defined

Remember that f/ numbers are defined as the ratio of the lens focal length to the aperture’s diameter.* So as you change to longer focal lengths, the size of an “f/8-sized” hole must grow larger too. But teeny digital sensor chips demand ultra-short focal lengths; on a digi compact, f/8 could mean an opening only 1 millimeter across.

A hole that tiny almost starts behaving like a pinhole. And as any pinhole photographer will tell you, if your hole’s too tiny, you run into a problem: the limits of diffraction.

Diffraction: The Optical Wild Card

Optical calculations generally assume that light rays follow mathematically straight lines, until they’re bent by some air-glass surface.

But it’s not that simple. Because of its wave nature, light grazing the edge of an obstacle can veer off-course. These light waves diffracting in random directions can reduce the sharpness and contrast of an image.

Diffraction Blur

As the aperture stop of a lens becomes smaller, an increasing proportion of the light grazes the edge of the iris opening—rather than passing unaffected through the middle.

Rather than focusing to a single point, this stray light forms a fuzzy bulls-eye pattern instead.

How all this affects image sharpness gets into some choppy waters, technically. With digital cameras, the diameter of those bulls-eyes can can even grow larger than the spacing between sensor pixels. You might have paid for an 8 megapixel camera—but if each point of light is smeared over several pixels, you might effectively get only 2! (For a more technical discussion of these complications, I recommend this helpful page.)

Note that zoom lenses add another wrinkle: An opening of a given diameter equates to different f/stops, depending on what focal length the lens is zoomed to.

The diameter of the lens elements determines the widest possible aperture; but the corresponding f/number changes as you zoom (this is the reason zooms list a range like 2.8–4.0 as their maximum aperture). And if the smallest-possible iris diameter remains constant, this equates to dimmer f/stops (higher f/numbers) as you zoom towards the telephoto end of the range.

Anyway, the upshot of all this is simple: There is some limit to the smallest f/stop which can be used, before diffraction damages sharpness too severely. And tiny image formats suffer the worst from this effect.

A digital point-and-shoot’s lens might stop down to only f/5.6 at the wide-angle setting; and f/8 at the telephoto end. (Contrast that with with lenses for 35mm cameras, which can close down 2 to 3 stops further.)

What about opening wider?

This explains why compact digitals must limit their smallest f/stop. But could we extend the f/stop range to wider apertures? This would also help with our image noise and depth-of-field headaches too.

But the problem here is not optical; rather, it’s a function of what today’s camera marketplace demands.

You can’t increase a lens’s maximum f/stop without adding to its diameter, weight, and cost. And with compact size being a highly-desired camera feature, that’s a tough sell today. Thus, it’s rare to see maximum apertures greater than f/2.8 (and remember, that only applies at the wide end of the zoom range). Compare this to 35mm film compacts of the 1970s, where affordable models often sported excellent, faster-than-f/2.0 lenses.

Actually, the tiny sensor of a digital compact would permit the design of an ultra-fast lens—let’s say f/1.4—that would be smaller and cheaper than its 35mm equivalent. But the snag is, it would not be a zoom. Zoom lens design has made enormous strides in the past decades; but we still can’t avoid a speed penalty of a couple of f/stops, compared to the best single-focal-length designs.

And zoom range is a major tick mark on today’s camera-shopping checklist. With a few notable exceptions, camera makers consider it commercial suicide to offer a zoomless camera (aside from their cheapest and tiniest models).

F/2.8 at Different Focal Lengths

Both lenses open to f/2.8—the difference is in their focal length. Smaller image formats allow more compact lenses of the same speed.

Between a rock and a hard place

So lens design for small-sensor cameras is hemmed in at both ends. The smallest f/stop is limited by diffraction. The widest is limited by market demand for zooms—but compact and inexpensive ones. Thus the range of available apertures only covers 2 or 3 stops—seriously limiting creative exposure choices. (With primes for 35mm, the range can be 7 or 8 stops instead.)

As new digital models are introduced, some oft-heard complaints—like autofocus lag and poor viewfinders—are gradually being addressed. Other problems like image noise in dim light might be tamed eventually, using better sensors or savvier image-processing.

But any lens is still bound by the laws of optics. No amount of technological whiz-bangery can change that. Compact cameras imply tiny sensor sizes; tiny images imply short focal lengths.

And with those limitations, using aperture in the way a creative photographer demands becomes impossible.

*Note: This explanation of f/numbers ignores a few optical complications, which do not affect the main point here.