Silverbased

Projects and ponderings for film photographers

Archive for February, 2008


The Idiosyncratic Konica IIIA

Many Japanese camera companies originally got their start by imitating German camera designs. (Nikon and Canon began by copying Contax and Leica, respectively.)

Yet in the second half of the 1950s, Japanese camera-makers began flexing their technical muscles as innovators in their own right. And within 10 years, original Japanese camera designs would completely dominate the marketplace—as they continue to do today. So I’m always intrigued by cameras dating from that first burst of technical innovation—like this Konica IIIA, introduced in 1958.

Konica III A

Konica IIIA, an innovative and stoutly-built 35mm rangefinder

“Konica” comes from Konishiroku Camera (just as Leica meant Leitz Camera). Konishiroku is the oldest name in Japanese photography, starting as an importer, then building their own first cameras in 1882.

The IIIA was the penultimate evolution of Konica’s I, II, III series of post-WWII, fixed-lens rangefinders. (While these were all meterless models, the final Konica IIIM was basically a IIIA with an ugly light meter grafted onto it.)

With the III series, Konica aimed to sell a high-quality rangefinder camera with an excellent 6-element lens at about 1/4 of typical Leica prices, by omitting the feature of an interchangeable lens mount.

Think Different

Note the absence of the typical thumb-wind film advance lever. The III series cocks its shutter and winds the film using two strokes of the lever sticking out to the right of the lens.

This odd-sounding design actually works quite nicely for me: As a left-eyed shooter, I’m able to keep my eye to the viewfinder when advancing—rather than jabbing myself in the forehead with a wind lever.

Street Shooter

Rangefinder cameras are often the first choice for photographers who want to unobtrusively capture street scenes, or people in action. M-series Leicas, whose cloth shutters only make a discreet “shlurp” sound, are the iconic example.

Yet leaf-shutter cameras can be even quieter, and this Konica is exceptionally silent. Even held right against my head, with typical outdoor backround noise I can barely hear the click of its shutter. You do give up some of that stealth with the IIIA’s rather noisy and conspicuous film-advance lever, though.

A Clear View

I need to gush about the viewfinder of this camera, the breakthrough feature of the “A” model. It is simply one of the great rangefinder/viewfinders of all time. It has a life-size 1:1 view, with very clear bright-line framelines. In fact, they’re actually brighter and larger than the ones on my 2005 Voigtlander Bessa R—which is really saying something.

Linhof Technika

What’s more, the framelines are not just parallax-adjusted; they also change size, matching a lens’s slightly reduced angle of view as you focus closer! This yields outstanding framing accuracy—not commonly a strength of rangefinder cameras.

I’m not aware of any other 35mm rangefinder which does this, past or present. Your only alternative would be to buy an immense 1960s Linhof Technika 6×7, which has the same feature (as did some older Polaroid models).

It’s true that the IIIA’s rangefinder spot does not have sharply-defined edges, so you can’t use the “split image” method of focusing. But the rangefinder baseline of about 49mm with 1:1 magnification gives excellent focusing accuracy.

Konica even innovated with the film-loading scheme for these cameras. Typical 35mm cassettes have a light trap formed by velvet strips; but Konica sold proprietary cassettes featuring a special gate, which linkages in the film compartment would open wide—thus avoiding all possibility of film scratching. Conventional film cassettes worked fine, actually, so the system is forgotten today (although I would love to find a few of the special cassettes to load bulk film into).

Evil EV

But the fatal flaw of the IIIA’s design from my point of view is its EV coupling—an interlock between the shutter speed and aperture rings.

The black ring with its white EV numbers moves in parallel with the shutter-speed ring. It engages the silver aperture scale with stiff spring tension (pulling it backwards uncouples them); but the f/stop ring does not have its own finger-grips to allow you to set the aperture directly.

Instead, you determine the correct EV number for the scene (e.g. from a light meter offering an EV scale); then wrestle with the black ring until the red pointer aligns with the proper value. After that, apertures are linked automatically to changes of shutter speed, setting the combination shown by the black diamond pointer.

Konica IIIA Exposure Scales

The Konica IIIA’s annoying EV interlock, here at EV 11. (Apologies that my EV scale looks so dirty.)

The theoretical advantage is that when you shoot a series of pictures in the same light, you can switch between the (uneven) shutter speed steps (i.e. 10, 25, 50, 100, 250) and the correct aperture is automatically selected for you—even if that is not a whole f/stop number.

Disappointingly, the 1/500th shutter speed does NOT couple correctly. Switching to that speed, the shutter-speed dial rotates further than normal, to tension a supplementary spring in the leaf shutter. Consequently the EV interlock opens the lens aperture by one extra stop, leading to overexposure.

As I rarely shoot more than a couple of frames in the same lighting, the EV coupling is simply an inconvenience. It’s hard to avoid a lot of awkward pulling back and twisting on the black ring to reach your desired settings.

Going Backwards

Konica III EV-Aperture Scales

1957 Konica III, showing aperture tab and EV scale

The IIIA had been preceded by this 2nd version of the Konica III, which had a much more sensible EV coupling system. A small tab operating the aperture could be rotated along with the EV scale (located directly on the nicely-machined shutter-speed ring). Or, the tab could be flexed outwards, easily disengaging from the EV-scale detents to set the aperture directly.

However the location of the f/stop scale—out of sight on the underside of the III’s lens barrel—was not exactly convenient.

Konica III front

Thanks to E. & K. Norris for the loan of this beautiful Konica III

There were also some appearance changes between the III and the IIIA—but to my entirely subjective tastes, the styling of the earlier model is nicer. The IIIA added an oddly-sculpted self-timer lever, and lost the III’s charming chevron-shaped advance plunger. And the IIIA’s astoundingly sophisticated bright-line viewing system came at the cost of much larger, more awkward-looking viewfinder windows.

The solidity and finish of these Konica III cameras remains impressive. Later Konica rangefinders were worthy models, but the build quality moved more towards the “consumer” end of the scale.

Konica still had one technological breakthrough up its sleeve, with 1965’s revolutionary Auto-Reflex—the camera which introduced auto-exposure to mainstream 35mm SLRs. But in later years, the company lost direction and eventually merged with Minolta; the combined company recently abandoned camera-making entirely.

So it’s nice to remember the long heritage of Konica with a model like the IIIA, which—flawed EV scheme aside—shows the company at its heights of making interesting, innovative cameras.

[a shorter version of this originally posted on Flickr 14 Dec 2007]

What the Heck is an Anastigmat?

Lens comes from the same Latin root as the word lentil. And the lentil outline, bulging outwards on both sides, is the most familiar shape for a glass that focuses light—as any child burning leaves and ants with a magnifying glass can tell you.

But for focusing an image onto a piece of film, that basic double-convex shape has some flaws. One is that light passing through the outside edges of the lens gets focused at a different distance than rays going through the center. This is spherical aberration. It also means light rays entering the lens at an angle get focused into blurry comet shapes, an aberration called coma.

It turns out you can improve the sharpness of a single-element lens with a couple of tricks: First, you drop the lentil shape, and instead, use a lens with one side that’s convex and one concave—a “meniscus” lens. Second, on the concave side you add an aperture stop (think f/11 or smaller), to block those pesky misfocusing outside rays.

Meniscus and Aperture Stop

Meniscus lens and aperture stop—ready to build a 16×20″ Brownie

A meniscus lens can offer surprisingly decent sharpness, if you only need small snapshot prints; the arrangement I just described has been used in millions of simple cameras, dating back to the original 1888 box-shaped Kodak.

Getting Bendy

But this optical arrangement has one quirk, which is that straight lines in your subject can warp into curves. Here’s a photo from a plastic Diana-type camera from the 1970s, with a simple meniscus lens in front of the aperture stop:

Diana Pincushion

The straight lines sort of suck inwards towards the middle—an effect you can also see in photos from Holga cameras, which have the same lens arrangement. The shape of this warping somehow inspired the name pincushion distortion.

If a meniscus lens is placed behind the stop, the distortion curves the opposite way—bulging outwards—called barrel distortion. Interestingly, most early box cameras used this lens arrangement. Perhaps that’s because subjectively, barrel distortion is slightly less distracting than the pincushion kind.

Kodak Brownie Hawkeye FlashBut a camera with no outwardly visible lens is strange-looking to consumers. Kodak actually resorted to adding a dummy piece of flat glass in front of the aperture stop for its Brownie Hawkeye Flash camera, so customers would be reassured by a more normal-looking appearance.

Other camera makers solved the problem by putting the lens in front of the aperture stop, but then curving the film gate to help straighten out the pincushioning.

(And yes, if you pair two identical lenses on either side of an aperture, it cancels out the distortion—inspiring the “Rapid Rectilinear” designs of the brass-barrel era.)

Color Trouble

Another problem with single-element lenses is that glass bends light through different angles depending on its color (think of prisms). So a simple lens focuses different-colored light at different distances, a defect called chromatic aberration. Again, it’s most obvious with rays passing through the lens at an angle. Here’s a detail from another Diana-clone shot, showing just the red/blue color fringing in one corner of the frame.

Diana Chromatic Aberration

Happily, it was realized quite a long time ago that there was a solution. Different formulas of glass have slightly different light-bending properties. Some bend light more strongly than others. Some disperse colors more strongly than others. By crunching a bit of math you can find a clever combination of two lenses, whose different glass recipes and different curvatures cancel out the chromatic aberration.

Achromat in Argus LogoTwo glass elements working together like this are called an achromat, and occasionally you’ll find a vintage camera lens named that way.

Achromats are most often a positive and a negative element cemented together into a single unit—a symbol that shows up at the bottom of this old Argus Camera logo, among many other places.

A Sticky Business?

Finally, there’s one last aberration to annoy us: Astigmatism. The word is familiar to a lot of eyeglass wearers (including one close friend of mine who jokes that he wears glasses because of his “stigmata“). But the term means something slightly different in the context of lens aberrations.

I won’t bore you with a longwinded explanation, except that it can make points of light focus into weird little seagull shapes towards the corners of the image. Might we find some optical trick to save us from this horror too?

Heroic Trio

During the 19th century, the mathematics of tracing light ray paths and analyzing aberrations were essentially worked out—although computing any particular design required a brutal equation-solving slog of many months.

Finally, in 1893 an optician named H. Dennis Taylor devised a lens of breathtaking economy, using just three elements: Two positive (lentil) lenses flanking a central negative one. He was able to show that this lens corrected all the classical aberrations to a high degree—including, notably, astigmatism—even at reasonably fast apertures of f/4.5 or so.

Taylor Triplet Cross-SectionRather unfairly, this design gained fame as the “Cooke Triplet,” named for his employer. I’d rather call it the Taylor Triplet. This design was the godfather of numerous of popular lenses, some of whose names may still ring familiar today: The Argus Cintar. The Zeiss Novar. Yashica Yashikor. Schneider Radionar. And (with mystifying cult status) the Lomo LC-A’s Minitar.

Taylor showed the way in creating the simplest, least expensive lens free from astigmatism. And so, whenever you come across a vintage camera lens proudly labelled “Anastigmat,” the chances are good it’s a simple triplet design. Naturally, any decent lens with four or more elements will be anastigmatic too; but by then the marketing department will be off boasting about something else, like its speed or coverage.

As it happens, the triplet design is somewhat “brittle,” in the sense that it must be designed and manufactured to exacting tolerances to reach full potential. And even then, triplets can show some softness in the corners of the frame until stopped down to middle apertures.

So, If Three Are Good…

A decade later, Zeiss introduced a 4-element lens design called the Tessar—replacing Taylor’s single rear element with a cemented achromat. This incredibly successful design set the standard for affordable, highly-corrected lenses for the next three-quarters of a century. Virtually every lensmaker created their own version: the Leitz Elmar, Schneider Xenar, Yashica Yashinon, Agfa Solinar, and countless others. Then, newer 6-element formulations made fine lenses possible with unheard-of apertures, like f/2 or even wider.

So, where does this leave the lowly Anastigmat today? As a solution to an engineering problem, triplets have a certain thrilling elegance—if you’re a total geek about these things, like I am. But they will never be counted among the world’s elite optics, the ones boasting hyper-acute resolution from edge to edge. On the other hand, triplets are not nearly bad enough to rank as true “toy camera” lenses, giving clearly distressed, lo-fi imagery.

Triplet Yashikor Sample Photo

Yashica 44 image; triplet Yashikor lens

But in the past few weeks, I’ve been shooting with a nice Yashica 44 (a TLR taking 127 film), featuring a Yashikor triplet. And I’ve been unexpectedly delighted with the results. There’s no heavy-handed vignetting or blur. Yet there’s just a slightest touch of “old world” softness to the edges of the frame, which works nicely with some subjects. Stop down a bit further and the crispness comes back. Somehow the images have a certain warmth which agrees with me.

So, for a lens that’s not laughably blurry, yet not over-clinically sharp—sometimes an old triplet is just the thing you need.